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Official Stuff
Car Show Calendar
Meet the Members!
General Barracuda/Valiant inquiries
Frequently Asked Questions
a short Barracuda history
Favorite Links
Technical articles and diagrams
Photos

The most Frequently Asked Questions:

Q. What is my Valiant/Barracuda worth?

A. In theory: Values vary widely upon condition of the car, location, and model/year. It is very difficult to put a price on a vehicle without inspecting it. For a ballpark idea, look through some classified ads on our Links page. Join our mailing list. See what similar vehicles sell for on eBay auctions. Go to the Hemmings Motor News website to view ads, or for a price guide. Or see the classic car section of NADA online. (Be aware that the average marketplace pricing may or may not match any of those ballpark guides. The final price will depend on whether you're anxious to buy or anxious to sell.)

A2. In practice: Although these can be nice cars, they are generally not considered to be expensive investments. There isn't much difference in price between 1964, 65, 66 models, but there can be a huge difference based on condition. Barracudas typically fetch between $0 and $10k USD, Valiants about half of that, and converts or other "special" considerations are somewhere in the middle. Needless to say, it takes a pretty spectacular car to push toward (or even beyond) the upper edge of the envelope, though it's not unheard of.

A3. An object is worth exactly what someone is willing to pay. No more, no less.


Q. Do you know where to get a (headlight bezel / tail light lens / gas cap / etc.)?

A. See our Links section for ideas, and join our mailing list. Parts can be purchased from many different sources. Junkyards and swapmeets for used parts. Auto parts stores for mechanical parts. Reproduction parts can be obtained from Year One, The Paddock, and other venders. Laysons Reproductions specializes in early A-bodies (Darts, Valiants and Barracudas) www.laysons.com

Q. I found this Valiant/Barracuda... should I buy it?

A. If you want to. Asking someone else if you should buy a car is almost akin to asking a stranger if you should get married.

Q. Do you know where I can find a shop? (for body work, engine work, etc...)

A. Check with other car people in your town. Go to car club events nearby. Join our mailing list. The Internet might help you find some of these people.

Q. Can you keep your eyes open for a Valiant/Barracuda... I want to buy one.

A. Check your local paper. If you are willing to pay for shipping check papers from other major cities. Check used car websites. See our Links page for more ideas. Join our mailing list.

Q. Can you decode my Vehicle ID Number (VIN), or fender tag?

A. Yes. Go look in our Tech section, listed under Specifications.

Q.Where do I find the broadcast sheet?

A.On most cars it can be found under the rear seat,stuck in the springs. Be careful, it's old and brittle so remove it slowly. I've been told some cars may have taped on top of the glovebox (remove it from the dash to find out), or occasionally under the carpeting.

Q. My car has a slant 6, but i have a 340/440 in the garage, will it fit?

A. These cars are considered "A" bodies, but narrow "A" bodies. All of the 273,318,340,360 Small Blocks (all physically the same outside dimensions) will bolt in with almost no modification, since a V8 was a factory option beginning in 1964. But even with a small block, it's a tight fit, requires special exhaust manifolds to clear the steering column, and generally leaves not much room for your hands to get in there to work on things. This early body style was clearly designed for the 6-cylinder powerplant, and the engine compartment didn't get wider until the 1967 model year.

On the other hand, the 383,400,413,440 are Big Blocks, and the engine compartment was never designed for these engines. Not even close. They will fit with lots of modifications. A welding torch, a shoehorn, and a little vaseline would be helpful.

(But people have done it. Just so you know, a big-block narrow A-body is generally considered a nose-heavy pig that isn't anywhere near as fun to drive and probably will not be even as fast as a healthy small block car. Not only will your working access be even more limited than it already was, the engine won't produce anywhere near the power it's capable of because there is no room for an exhaust system of sufficient size, unless you cut up the fenderwells to fit the pipes around the front wheels. If you're saving a rust-bucket from the crusher, and you like playing with your welding torch, this approach might be justified. Please don't destroy a good specimen like this. We have many members who would gladly trade you their rust-bucket, I'm sure. -ed.)


Q. How do I fix "this"?

A. The best thing you can do is to buy a Factory Service Manual. (For more details, see our Tech section, listed under Book Reviews.) The FSM has much more info on procedures and diagnosis than anyone can provide on any given subject.

Q. How do I know if my car is "numbers matching"?

A. You don't. Chrysler didn't started stamping the last 8 numbers of the car's VIN on the engine until 1968. For anything earlier, you won't know for sure, but you can guess by decoding the fender tag to check engine size, then checking the engine number for the date code. For more info check out our Tech section under Specifications.

Q. I'm selling my car/parts. Can you post an ad?

A. There are many places online, see our Links page. Or you could Join our Mailing List and let everyone know what you have to sell. Our list currently has over 200 people subscribed, so there's no doubt you'll have the right audience.

Q. If I still have questions, should I email the Webmaster?

A. Sure, if your questions are related to the Web site. But if you have technical questions about your Valiant/Barracuda, please join our mailing list instead.

 

 

 

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